Last week I was very excited to try out the newest hotspot in the Palm Desert culinary scene - simply called "Sense". Located in the now defunct former location of one of my favorite local eateries Omri Go Med, Sense has opened to great fanfare based on it's unique menu concept and re-design.
Accompanied by my galpal and fellow foodie Carmen, we made a reservation for 7pm and asked for a good table ( natch) . No trouble getting us in even though they are packed every night, the sign of a good start.
I arrived early and was asked to take a seat at the newly remodeled bar, a good vantage point to take in the surroundings, see and be seen. The new decor is striking with bold black and white furnishings, esoteric and funky artwork and a chic remodel that added a nice sized bar to the former back dining room. Gone are Omri's flat screens displaying the goings-on of the back kitchen - replaced by a new crop of large TV's emblazoned with every conceivable sports game and highlight - not my favorite choice. The new bar is large - so much so that I missed entirely a friend seated at the other side the very same time I was there.
Not much to do but order a glass of wine - so the friendly bartender offers up the menu to peruse. Drag - the wine list is not very good at all. There's not a single interesting varietal and the list on a whole is quite run of the mill, not what I would expect of a restaurant that touts it's attention to organic, sustainable products and innovative technique. On the upside, the beer list looks really promising and they do have a full bar. So if you dine there - bring your own bottle ( for a small fee ) or get a cocktail instead. I am dead set on wine, so I go with the Bogle Pinot which is a grocery store bottle I buy in a pinch for $12 - at $6 a glass I don't feel too ripped off.
My date arrives and we're seated at the very corner table in the front window - a great place to take in the rest of the meal. Immediately we notice that it is loud in the dining room - I mean really, really load - so much so that we have to shout at each other for what turns out to be the rest of our time there. In fairness, there is a large party seated a few yards from us who are having quite a good time. But the noise is pretty unbearable, regardless.
Our server arrives and informs us that water is complimentary - how fabulous! She also lets us know that the portions are small and so we should order many things - she would let us know if we'd ordered to much or to little. My companion and I are perfectly happy to share an array of dishes so we set to work picking our selections. Let me just say that I LOVE small plates and tasting menus above all other modes of dining so I was truly looking forward to grazing through the menu, which is oddly divided into three sections. Classic seems to be a nod to classic ( read - boring ) restaurant dishes, New is clearly their seasonal fare and Tribute is apparently an homage to customers and friends. It's quite a mish mash!
Out comes a lazy susan type contraption that houses a few housemade breads, oils and butters along with fresh salt & pepper grinders. A nice touch, and I'm sure, impressive to diners. We easily agree on the four most interesting sounding dishes, and fall into a shouting conversation while we wait for our plates to arrive.
First comes the Duck Prosciutto on Crostini with a Berry Syrup, Ricotta and Greens. Three minuscule pieces the size and length of my pinky. The flavors were nice, but not exceptional. For the price a good value though ( $4 ).
Next we tried the Black Cod in Caramel sauce with Rice. Did not come with all of the garnish advertised, and was served with a bland Ginger rice. The piece of fish was only enough for each of us to have one single bite. Very disappointing ( $14 )
We were intrigued by the concept of a Lamb Porterhouse, neither of us having ever seen or tried one before. It was particularly small , and again, arrived without advertised accompaniments besides a rather sad lump of mashed potatoes. It wasn't a particularly good presentation but the lamb itself was outstanding. The server tells us it is grass fed and comes from Idaho. Easily the tastiest morsel of the night, but plating and accompanying dishes bring it way down in my eyes ( $15 )
Finally we were compelled to try the Winchester Farms Tagliatelle - I am a sucker for fresh pasta on a menu. Conspicuously missing from the dish was the pancetta it promised - and I kid you not, there were more wild mushrooms than pasta. It was pretty good, and a nice sized portion . Our friend complained of too much thyme but I thought ours was seasoned nicely. The price was kind of outrageous ( $20 ) but the server informed us that the mushrooms are very expensive. Hmph.
With two glasses of wine, dinner came to $70, plus tax and tip. I generally spend more on dinner for two, but then again I usually am not still hungry when I leave, and if the food is good I'll be tempted to try a dessert, which we did not. As it turns out my date and I both went home and ate something after we left, if that gives you an indication of our meal.
I will go back again before summer and hope that they work all of the kinks out, as any new eatery sometimes needs time to get their bearings. They are onto something here - especially the upscale atmosphere, organic/ wild / sustainable nature and small plates concept. I really, really wanted to like this place but was pretty underwhelmed. I encourage you to go check it out and be your own judge of whether or not Sense makes any sense at all.
Sense
73675 Highway 111. Palm Desert, CA
Reservations Reccomended
760-341-2900
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